I used Maya Road chipboard scrolls and Perfect Pearls Patina collection - the green and gold. (Gorgeous!) (Yes, Perfect Pearls & UTEE IS amazing!! Now, I just used clear & pearl for the examples I shared but you don't have to stop there! Mix it up...try adding Perfect Pearls to colored UTEE! Mix different colors of Perfect Pearls into Clear or Pearl UTEE... The combinations are endless!!)
At first I didn't believe you that the PP-colored UTEE would cover totally, so I covered my first piece in pigment black ink instead of the Perfect Medium. I quickly discovered that you were right (of course!) and left that extra step out and only used the Per Med from that point on. (Told ya so - LOL!!!)
I mixed pretty much according to your directions and got a great result. I even used the same kind and size of plastic cup! (recycle, reuse - *grin*). You don't need a lot of the PP to mix and I really liked that. I started out with a pretty small scoop on that cool small spoon thingy and that worked great! (Yep, a little dab 'll do ya!)
I embossed my first layer. Now this is where I ran into trouble. I tried repeatedly to heat the piece with one hand using my heat tool and then use my other hand to sprinkle little bits of the EP (UTEE / PP mix = EP). The EP kept flying all over me, my table, the container I was using to catch the EP and probably even the cat. But I am stubborn so I kept trying and, yup - I kept making an even bigger mess. Not pretty... and now I was getting frustrated. So I went for a walk with the dog, came back and decided to let the piece cool in between layers of EP and THEN ink it up with Per Med, coat with the EP mix and emboss like normal. Success! I still have a mess, but it wasn't as bad. (But, frankly, this is the major issue I have with working with multiple layers of UTEE - it seems like no matter what I do, I always end up with a mess and then I have a gritty work surface for a week afterward, ya know? And tips you can give here?? I really hate that!) (O.K... here is where I thought I'd add some info. I never add more Perfect Medium or Embossing Inks. When you are heating, work in small areas even if you have a large piece you're working with. I like to either start from the left side or right side, it doesn't really matter. Once you have the UTEE melted in that particular area, turn your heat gun away from the chipboard piece, sprinkle on additional UTEE - just a little mind you - and turn your heat gun back on the UTEE. You're never going to get away from them completely but this should take care of most of the "fly-aways". Continue turning your gun away & sprinkling until you have the desired thickness. Move to your next section (which should be pretty hot since it's right next to where you were working) and repeat. As long as you keep your UTEE pretty hot the UTEE granules you sprinkle over the top should almost melt as sprinkle them on.)
OK - now I had about 3 layers of the EP mix and that is where I like it generally so I was ready to get the whole thing molten and press my poly stamp. Here is where I had another moment of doubt. (I am a willful child - I admit it! lol). I looked at the molten UTEE, then I looked at my stamp and I thought - oh man, that is going to stick and I will never get that out. So, I coated my poly (and regular stamp for the second piece) with Per Med and THEN got my piece molten and pressed it in. (ROFL ~ doubting Sally!! I promise, I've done this prob. close to 100 times about 1/2 & 1/2 on rubber & acrylic and it's never harmed any of the stamps! Stamping onto the PM pad won't hurt it though.)
I let it sit for way longer than a minute. This was one place I did NOT doubt you for a second. LOL So, after 5 or even 10 minutes, I slowly peeled the rubber off the piece and Viola!
My first piece had a section of smooth where I didn't press the rubber in well enough. I reheated like you said and pressed again. The second time turned out great!
The second one went a little faster now that I knew (sorta) what I was doing. This time I used a wood mounted stamp (Judikins background flourish stamp) and I liked the result better. That's the one where you can see the pattern really well.
Next I did the whole process on a large, flat wooden heart. All went great up until the stamp pressing part. I used the Judikins stamp here, too, but even the second time when I reheated and pressed the stamp in, I didn't get a good, deep impression. It looks really faint. I gave up b/c I need to go to bed, but I will try again tomorrow. I pressed really hard the second time, but still no luck. What do you think? Maybe I didn't heat the UTEE up enough? (I'm sure part of this is the fact that you're using a wood piece to work with. It absorbs some of the heat and cools the UTEE much quicker than if you were working with a piece of chipboard. For this project you're going to need quite a thick layer of UTEE and really heat it up a long time so the UTEE almost slides off the heart. Have the stamp ready to go and at the same moment you take your heat gun off of the heart press the stamp into it. With a thicker coat & longer heat time it should work pretty good.)
Last, I edged with Rangers Archival black solvent ink for nice a grunge look and definition.
(and here are her results!! Pretty darn cool I'd say!!)
Thanks Phinny for sharing your experience of Stamping in UTEE!! If anyone else cares to send me their experiments, comments or questions I'd be happy to post them here!!
Be sure to check back tomorrow as I'll have another 4 for 1 and a preview of next weeks Ink Stained Sketch!!
Have a great evening everyone!!